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#210176 - Sun Oct 15 2006 09:59 AM Re: Surfers *****
Indo Offline
SJ'er with 4000+ posts

Registered: Sun Feb 17 2002
Posts: 4383
Loc: Nagoya
Yeah Mantas, I do still go back but not as much as I used to. The last 2 trips I only stayed in Bali because I had my groms with me. (non of my mates can get green light for boys trip..)
Bali is fun though because I have a heap of friends there and I just love the people.
Thing that does my head in about Bali is travel time for surf. Going down the Bukit everyday is the same as going for a surf here. Traffic sux there now.

I've spent a few years of my life out in the islands, from Roti - Nth Sumatra!
Found a heap of waves between Roti & Sumba. Lakeys has a special place in my heart. Perfect set up, with so many wave choices. Crowds came when that fast Ferry started in 2000 but it's out of order now so maybe the crowds aren't as bad?

As for Japan being the most under rated surf spot. Yeah there's surfbut it's not often. There's no consistency at all. Usually to get the good surf you have to travel 100's of km's at the "chance" of getting lucky. Typhoons move so damn quickly that nothing is definate and very bloody hard to predict! So for the people that have to work and surf only when they are free it's not really that good! Pro's that come to Japan get driven around chasing waves and that's all they do, so obviously they would think that.
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#210177 - Sun Oct 15 2006 10:12 AM Re: Surfers
Mantas Offline
SJ'er with 2000+ posts

Registered: Sun Jun 18 2006
Posts: 2087
Loc: Australia
Indosnm touched on an important point. Fitness. It can't be underestimated. I'm certainly no big wave hero, but I take my fitness more seriously than some of my surfing mates. This allows me go a bit harder when the swell is on. I don't want to sitting on the beach because I'm not fit enough to paddle out.
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#210178 - Sun Oct 15 2006 10:25 AM Re: Surfers
Mantas Offline
SJ'er with 2000+ posts

Registered: Sun Jun 18 2006
Posts: 2087
Loc: Australia
Indo have you ever surfed Numbrella Roti? When I was there it was only small but looked like it had heeps of potental. Beautiful spot though.I was in Sumbawa when a massive swell hit. there was about 30 guys in the camps but only 3 went out at lakey peak ( i wasn't one of them) i surfed Nungers.
I've never been to the Mentawias, think I missed the boat there. Too crowded now. I had 6 weeks in Nias in 1987. I've never surfed Sumatra mainland.

My first trip was in 1978 ( i was 11 ) my last trip was in 1998.

I'd like to go back with my kids one day. We had some friends that went with there kids to Bali afew years ago. A bomb went off 200m from where there were having dinner. It put the wind up us a bit I must admit. If it was just me or me and wife, no worries, but not the kids.
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#210179 - Sun Oct 15 2006 12:56 PM Re: Surfers
Mantas Offline
SJ'er with 2000+ posts

Registered: Sun Jun 18 2006
Posts: 2087
Loc: Australia
Well here it is again. 'Get it on 'remix!

Same dodgey surfing, same dodgey camera, same dodgey cameraman, slightly improved editing and quality.

Oh and the same 80's dodgey music that i like.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VfGnnVG2IA
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#210180 - Sun Oct 15 2006 02:18 PM Re: Surfers
Indo Offline
SJ'er with 4000+ posts

Registered: Sun Feb 17 2002
Posts: 4383
Loc: Nagoya
I'm almost a Bali baby! first trip was '81 as a 6 year old grom. Went pretty much year due to family biz. Got married there and both kids were concieved there too! (goog ol' Bintang!)

I've been to Nembrala. Took Bus from Kuta, ferry, bus, ferry, bus, ferry, bus and @ Ende in Flores said Fukc it , I'm catching a plane!" That was all solo, which I don't mind but with Indo's touching ya leg the whole time and kretek ciggies, dodgy music, chicken & pigs sitting next to you 6 days of no white man can take it's toll!
Got to Kupang, hang for a day to wait for the ferry, was keen to hook up with any surfer to share a coldy once I landed in Nembrala. Finally got there after massive delays to ferry. I was the only tourist on the whole Island and a cyclone was on it's way and the ferry didn't come for a week! Surf was macking probably 8-15+ onshore! Being such a long paddle was abit dodgy doing the solo. Ferry came & I got the F#$%&ck outta there! Without riding a wave! But have scored other spots from a boat in the years after that.

Love the peak & lakeys when it's big, spent about 7 months there one year so ya get pretty used to it. I reckon I could navigate the pit (both ways) with my eyes shut and still make it! But at one point during a 10 day swell I actually got sick of getting shacked! Ha, can't imgine getting sick of it now!

I just missed the first bomb in Bali, some mates didn't. We took some precautions when taking our first trip with our son, but the 2nd bomb proved that it was harder to avoid being caught out, as it hit early around dinner time. Love the place and the people too much to stay away. It's times like now when they need their friends to come back and support them. But I'll warn ya, Bali with kids is different to a surfing holiday with no kids, I am still taking time to adjust to not being on the surfhunt 24/7!

long dribble, I'll check out that vid, and fix a few of mine up soon.
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#210181 - Sun Oct 15 2006 03:59 PM Re: Surfers
Mantas Offline
SJ'er with 2000+ posts

Registered: Sun Jun 18 2006
Posts: 2087
Loc: Australia
Mate- I could dribble on about Indo for hours.
Can really relate to the chikens,pigs, kretek ciggies ect. One year I went from Timor to Jakarta overland, bus ferry,bus ferry, bus, ferry, bus, ferry. It took over a month. The pelni boats only came once a week.

I had a much better trip to Roti than your horror story. Took a prahu from Baa aa???. and sailed all the way to Nembrala. An Indo had a line out the back. He asked me to hold it while he went for a piss. Bang, 5 minutes later I hauled in a nice spanish mackeral.
Scored some nice quality but small waves. hooked up with a good crew and proposed to my now wife on the beach.

I know what you mean about not being able to stay away. It had a grip on me for 20 years.

Where would you recommend to go for a
1)Boys trip
2) Family/ surf trip

I've got loads more dribble if your keen?
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#210182 - Sun Oct 15 2006 07:24 PM Re: Surfers
Thunderpants Offline
SJ'er with 750+ posts

Registered: Wed Oct 22 2003
Posts: 772
Loc: Tanegashima
Not the boards for you guys, but please take a minute to enjoy some beautiful boards anyway
http://www.cooperfishsurfboards.com/roundlabels.html
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#210183 - Sun Oct 15 2006 07:27 PM Re: Surfers
db le p Offline
SJ'er with 5000+ posts

Registered: Tue Sep 24 2002
Posts: 6723
Loc: Germany
Snosurf - one way to get yourself into bigger waves is to surf fatter greener breaks. You get a bit more leeway from the ocean for mistakes. And dropping down a big face is fun, so it setting of the bottom and lining up a thick lippy shoulder. You wont get inside and you wont go super fast down the line. But it will give your some time to get comfortable with paddling down a big face, the drop and long deep hold downs. I have never really surfed the shallow pitching stuff these guys are talking about at double to triple over head. That's a different level. I'm pretty envious and frustrated that I haven't. Oh well. I'd have to do a lot of work to get into those kind of waves these days.

Thunder - turning on a single fin shape like that is what turning on a wave is all about. Makes you surf a thruster really good as well. Some of the graphics were a bit off the mar for me.


edit:
Jesus! I just realised that Mantas is using the same avatar that Siren used to use. I just worked out why I've been getting a flashback of nausea each time I scan my eyes down a thread this morning. Mantas - nothing wrong with the avatar, just reminds me of a guy that used to use it. You wouldn't have liked him very much (he makes me look like you).

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#210184 - Sun Oct 15 2006 07:39 PM Re: Surfers
Thunderpants Offline
SJ'er with 750+ posts

Registered: Wed Oct 22 2003
Posts: 772
Loc: Tanegashima
I don't even pretend to have any surfing-talent whatsoever.
just love the glide of a big single fin board. the energy it takes to turn it and the occasional nose ride.

I will never get to surf the big stuff, and it is all right.

Watched the movie Sprout the other day, what a lovely movie. my favorite surf movie would be "Longer, a look at Joel Tudor"
I even think hard charging shortboarders would like it.
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#210185 - Sun Oct 15 2006 07:41 PM Re: Surfers
Thunderpants Offline
SJ'er with 750+ posts

Registered: Wed Oct 22 2003
Posts: 772
Loc: Tanegashima
SPud btw, your avatar is a bit dark side where i sit..
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#210186 - Sun Oct 15 2006 07:57 PM Re: Surfers
Mantas Offline
SJ'er with 2000+ posts

Registered: Sun Jun 18 2006
Posts: 2087
Loc: Australia
 Quote:
Originally posted by db le spud:
edit:
Jesus! I just realised that Mantas is using the same avatar that Siren used to use. I just worked out why I've been getting a flashback of nausea each time I scan my eyes down a thread this morning. Mantas - nothing wrong with the avatar, just reminds me of a guy that used to use it. You wouldn't have liked him very much (he makes me look like you).
mate- tell me how to customise my own avitar and i will change it. it's all a learning curve for me.
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#210187 - Sun Oct 15 2006 08:13 PM Re: Surfers
db le p Offline
SJ'er with 5000+ posts

Registered: Tue Sep 24 2002
Posts: 6723
Loc: Germany
Thunder - its supposed to be dark. Most of the time a black square, but at some angles a glimpse of something, a person. Everyone wants to see pictures of other members, so they try to get a better look. You lean out of you seat, cock your head at an uncomfortable angle and get a bit of up close eyeball screen glare..... just to find me in the shadows sticking my finger upon at you. Some of the more whimsically hearted members may not see that as being a very nice thing. I love it.

I agree about the turn on a thin railed single fin wide nosed narrow tailed board. I met a guy recently, a seriously good heavy wave surfer. He only surfs a board like that on certain tube days. In the pit then a big hard carve out on the shoulder. I was tempted to make one over summer.

Mantas - Don't feel like I picked on your avatar, it just who used to use it. A Pavlov's dog reaction from me. It isn't easy to set your own:

1. find a picture you like and crop it square, or close to square.
2. use some software to shrink it to 70x70 pixels or smaller. If it isn't quite square like mine then you could shrink it to 68x70
3. put the picture online somewhere (like your SJ members page). Copy the url link to the picture
4. go to your preferences and at the bottom of the avatar collection, paste the url link.
5. at the top of the avatar collection page see if your custom pic is showing and click 'use this image'.
7. save changes to your profile.
6. post something on the forum to see if the new avatar appeared.

Its a fuggin hassle, took me 30 minutes and heaps of trial and error to change mine.

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#210188 - Sun Oct 15 2006 08:36 PM Re: Surfers
Thunderpants Offline
SJ'er with 750+ posts

Registered: Wed Oct 22 2003
Posts: 772
Loc: Tanegashima
Sorry can't resist \:\)
Lance Burkhart
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#210189 - Sun Oct 15 2006 08:38 PM Re: Surfers
db le p Offline
SJ'er with 5000+ posts

Registered: Tue Sep 24 2002
Posts: 6723
Loc: Germany
eh? no worky

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#210190 - Sun Oct 15 2006 08:51 PM Re: Surfers
Thunderpants Offline
SJ'er with 750+ posts

Registered: Wed Oct 22 2003
Posts: 772
Loc: Tanegashima
hmm, just a silly .wav file. works here.
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#210191 - Sun Oct 15 2006 09:18 PM Re: Surfers
Mantas Offline
SJ'er with 2000+ posts

Registered: Sun Jun 18 2006
Posts: 2087
Loc: Australia
 Quote:
Originally posted by Thunderpants:
Not the boards for you guys, but please take a minute to enjoy some beautiful boards anyway
Isn't it amazing. All the boards around now. mals,mini-mals, fishes, afterburners. My brother has about 11 boards of all descriptions. He explains to me in great detail what they are alll for,
Me. I have had the same 2 boards for the last 7 years.
Come to thik of it I've had the same snowboard for 10 years now. Might be time to upgrade.
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#210192 - Sun Oct 15 2006 11:37 PM Re: Surfers
Thunderpants Offline
SJ'er with 750+ posts

Registered: Wed Oct 22 2003
Posts: 772
Loc: Tanegashima
In my end of surfing culture things have been moving back in time in the last 10-15 years or so.
In the 80's longboarding was going 3 fin, shorter and in general trying to emulate shortboarding. how sad it was.

these days it is all about what it used to be, style over performance.

My wife and i own 9 boards between us, and while my wife uses 3-4 different, i always take "my special" board.
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#210193 - Mon Oct 16 2006 12:30 AM Re: Surfers
Indo Offline
SJ'er with 4000+ posts

Registered: Sun Feb 17 2002
Posts: 4383
Loc: Nagoya
fark 9 rongboards thunder! You must be stacked!
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"Why not?"
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#210194 - Mon Oct 16 2006 12:33 AM Re: Surfers
Bushpig Offline
SJ'er with 7500+ posts

Registered: Fri Jan 07 2005
Posts: 8193
Loc: Sandgroperville
must have a pretty big oshiire!
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#210195 - Mon Oct 16 2006 12:45 AM Re: Surfers
Indo Offline
SJ'er with 4000+ posts

Registered: Sun Feb 17 2002
Posts: 4383
Loc: Nagoya
 Quote:
Originally posted by Mantas:

Where would you recommend to go for a
1)Boys trip
2) Family/ surf trip
Anywhere would be good, depends on the level of the guys with you. Lakeys is good but you know that. If you want to get to the out of reach areas I'd strongly suggest Sumba, you have to do some hard yards and usually there aren't many options if the main place you're at isn't good. Best is rent a boat from locals and just go. If cashed up then do the boat trip in that area.. but only do a boat if you can fill it because there's nothing worse than getting stuck with a bunch of Brazo's or sepps that ... well you know....

Family, lakeys is my best pick because close proximity to the surf ( 1 min) so max surf & family time. Just depends what your kids are liek and how old. I have been waiting till mine are a it older for the islands as i've had malaria twice from Lakeys. I'm biased towards Lakeys because my wife also surfs and staying right next to the surf means that we can both surf 2 times a day with no hassles!

 Quote:
I've got loads more dribble if your keen?
Mate, next time I'm in your neck of the woods, I'll bring a slab around!

I have about 12-15 boards scattered around the world. Here I have about 8 but really I only need three. The more boards you have the more time you have to fukc around deciding which board to use. Less is more I think.

And here's a shot of my Uncle..
Can you guess who it is?
_________________________
"Take off your glasses"
"No"
"Why not?"
"Cos they're famous"

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