It's a hard call because depends on the place ya surfing.
A reef takeoff is pretty defined so you'd be mad to paddle to far inside!
A beachie could be arguable, unless it's a point break.

Spook, thats a practise I've done many times, paddling them in too far, they get smashed on the ledge and I get my waves! (at my local reefies)

Good waves up here kokdoko. Small but clean and punchy. Only one other guy out as well.

Indo- you know as well as I do that when the swell is on, the 'take off spot' can be as big as half a footy field. 10-20 meters here or there is FA. There's no way I'd take a set wave then paddle back out and plonk myself 10-20 meters inside some guy who is waiting patiently, then claim that I have rights to the next wave because 'I'm in the right spot'. no matter if I was a local legend or otherwise. It's just plane rude. And that sort of behavior leads to dropping in.

BTW, that wasn't Spook

I know where ya coming from and I agree with you (in parts).
But my experience with the reefs I surf usually the take off is a pretty defined spot (5 metres is stretching it) and 15-20m and ya shoulder hopping.
Guys get their wave and paddle out around everyone are bastards, and they are everywhere but when a guy is on the shoulder and not in the take off zone does he have a right to get pissed if people paddle past him to the take off zone?
Beachies, well a way harder argument shifty peaks every where and I agree with you there.

South Easter came up so i went for a massive bike ride.

The legs are getting ready for the snow..

Not fishing for an arguement Indo, just emphasizing the 'grey area' bit. I agree with what you say too. I cant tell ya how many times I've pulled back because a guy was inside me, only to see him wash up in the foam. I was in the right spot, even if it was on the shoulder. He was too far inside. It's a pet hate of mine.

Waves should be on again tomorrow. I'm gunna hit it early.

Mate the gray area is HUGE!

Hope ya get some good ones tomorrow.. I can only dream!

Still small and clean. Waters beautiful at the mo. Warm and crystal clear. Worth getting wet.

Had my first surf in Japan last month down at Chiba. Stayed at Beachbeds which was cool and Rob down there showed me around and scored some good waves. The place reminded me of Torquay about 15 years ago before the surf scene went nuts. The one thing I found strange was the silence in the water. The J crew didn't talk and no hoots.

I don't see how you come to that comparison about Torquay and Chiba but the silence is a killer eh! A few crew hoot here at 2ft ankle slappers which always make me laugh!

Must be nice to escape from the mountains and have a surf TJ. I love mountains but I love the surf more.

Has to be pretty good around here before the boys start to hoot.

Indo- Have you ever been to the Mentawais. The boys are organizing a trip next year. I've already said I'm in. It's a 2 week trip that starts at Gunasitoli Nias and then works it's way south through the Banyaks, Telo, Hinakos then Mentawais.

I have been to the Hinakos Islands in the nineties before the yacht craze started. It is freaking awesome there.
We went in an old indo fishing boat that looked like one of those refugee boats..
One dude got a fin in his leg and someone stitched him up on the boat.

WE got some sik waves but i have no idea where they are. We had no maps and i doubt if the captain even had a compass!
I know i surfed Bawa at about ten foot, snapped my leg rope and ended up in shore at the village with all the locals staring at my and the kepala desa(village head) inviting me in for a cuppa.

best waves of my life.

Yes mantas.
Bloody great place, but i haven't been back since 98.
Telo's are good but lack the punch of the Mantawai's and Hinakos.. Bawa is a beast.. Asu is a great wave too but fickle with the winds.

As long as you are with your mates you'll have a great time. Going on boat trips with strangers can be like living in HELL!

I've never done a luxury tour, only old Indo fishing boats at were bartered for at the local ports. F all food and no beer! but bloody good waves.. I don't think I can do the feral for too long anymore these days!

I went to Nias in 87, but missed out on the Hinakos. Bearshead went there and described it much like Kokodoko , minus the deck-top surgical episode . The boat will be full of 'us' don't worry about that. I haven't been to Indo now for nearly ten years. My Bahasa is all but faded. I think it's time to return. there's been so much hype over the Mentawais, and from what I can gather it's all justified.
I really don't want to mix with too many crowds. Some low key spots will do us.

98 !!- That would've been pre crowds wouldn't it?

Quiet beachside town with a developing surf scene. Some nice new surf shops and restaurant/cafes. Cool local crew. Maybe I have been out of Oz too long and just loved hitting the beach.

Mick takes the title at last in Brazil last night. Taj second.
Been a while since it's been on our shores.

yep it is about time we had another world champ.
go the fanning..!

yeah, i woulda liked to see taj get up, but you can't fault fanning's surfing. he's been on fire all year
glad to see an aussie win it again

Have we seen the last of Jimmy ??